![]() ![]() Figure 1Īlso not hard to hold down, this low voicing of F mutes the top E and B strings with the underside of the first finger, and sounds thick and chunky. Or just experiment with added notes and open strings and see what you find. As you play these examples see if you can find the major seventh (E) or minor seventh (E♭) to add to the chords, giving you an F major seven or F seven. The notes of F major are F, A and C, that’s root, third and fifth of an F major scale. You could also capo the first fret and play E, but in each case all the other chords in the song will need to be adjusted to the new key. One way of avoiding F is to use a capo – you could capo the third fret and play a D major chord, or the fifth fret and play a C major shape. READ MORE: Chord Clinic: Learn to play 10 interesting A major chord variations.It’s a challenge to play not only because it’s a barre chord, but also because of its position at the first fret, precisely where the nut is holding up the strings that the hapless guitarist is trying to hold down. It's like having a sore tooth, and you can't help but run your tongue over it, causing more pain.The basic F major barre chord is often the first barre chord that beginners come up against, as F is chord IV in the popular key of C major. I realize everything is a compromise, and I know that the big frets on this guitar are bound to cause problems, but this is really bad. Checking the individual notes with a tuner shows them to all be a little sharp, to varying degrees, just like the F chord without the capo. Putting a capo on the first fret, then playing an F# sounds ok. Since all the notes in an F barre chord are a bit sharp, the chord shouldn't sound bad played by itself. If I check the notes against a tuner, yes, the notes on the first through third frets on all the strings are a bit sharp, but not that bad (5 cents or less, I think). I know it's not a strobe tuner, but it's a very good tuner, so that shouldn't be a problem. Intonation is spot on (at the 12th fret), I put a six-saddle bridge and set the intonation with new strings using a Boss TU-12. Nut relief is as low as it can go, any lower and the open strings will buzz on the first fret I set the neck relief to 0.012" per the bookĪction is 4/64" at the body fret on the treble strings, 5/64" at the body fret on the bass strings It's a harmonics thing, its intonation on that chord is dead solid perfect. That explains why that chord isn't quite right but even in a cowboy C-major chord my open G sounds like poo. But when I do a barred F-major chord it drags all the strings sharp to various degrees except for the B-string which goes ever so slightly flat (go figure). I measured my intonation this morning (with a Peterson VS-I, everybody needs one of these jewels) and with one string, one finger at a time the G-string is very, very close to spot on at the first or second fret. ![]() He says they don't work with modern strings and goodness knows I believe him. Actually, I know of one custom pickup winder who even when you want a hard-core vintage sound still strongly advises non-staggered pickups. If I keep this Strat long term I will swap out the stock pickups for a non-staggered set. I also tried setting the action a bit higher on that one string but hated the odd feel of that. I actually have the neck and middle adjusted a tiny bit (half millimeter maybe) below the "sweet spot" just to get that staggered third magnet a little lower from the string. 013 is on my Strat and oh yes, the pickup is too high.under the G-string! ![]()
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